The intersection of Israeli cuisine and humanitarian aid in Gaza has become a focal point for broader geopolitical and cultural debates. The rise of Israeli food on the global stage, led by figures like Shahar Segal, has paralleled a complex narrative of cultural appropriation, culinary innovation, and the politics of identity. Segal’s transition from a celebrated restaurateur to the public face of the Gaza Humanitarian Foundation (GHF) has further complicated this narrative, highlighting the entanglement of food, power, and humanitarian efforts in conflict zones.
The Globalization of Israeli Cuisine
The past two decades have witnessed a remarkable transformation in the perception and popularity of Israeli cuisine. Dishes such as shawarma, hummus, malawach, and sabich, once confined to local eateries in Tel Aviv, have now become staples in trendy restaurants worldwide. This culinary renaissance has been driven by entrepreneurs and chefs who have successfully marketed these dishes as part of a distinct Israeli culinary identity. Shahar Segal, a former TV ad director turned restaurateur, exemplifies this trend. His restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Shmoné, have played a pivotal role in popularizing Israeli cuisine, attracting celebrities and earning critical acclaim.
However, the globalization of Israeli cuisine has not been without controversy. Critics argue that this trend represents a form of cultural appropriation, stripping Palestinian and broader Middle Eastern cultures of their culinary heritage. The debate over who owns these dishes—whether they are Israeli, Palestinian, or a shared Levantine heritage—has intensified as Israeli cuisine gains global recognition. This controversy has been further exacerbated by the political context, with some viewing the promotion of Israeli cuisine as a form of soft power, aimed at shaping international perceptions of Israel.
From Chef’s Table to Conflict Zone: The Gaza Humanitarian Foundation
The ongoing crisis in Gaza has been characterized by severe shortages of food, water, and medical supplies, exacerbated by the blockade and ongoing conflict. Traditional humanitarian organizations, such as the Red Cross and the World Food Program, have faced significant challenges in delivering aid to the region. In response to these obstacles, the Gaza Humanitarian Foundation (GHF) was established in 2024, backed by U.S. and Israeli authorities. The GHF promised a more efficient and transparent approach to aid distribution, positioning itself as an alternative to the UN-run system.
Shahar Segal’s involvement in the GHF marked a significant shift from his role as a restaurateur to a public figure in humanitarian efforts. The foundation’s launch was accompanied by a media campaign that highlighted the distribution of food aid to children in Gaza, aiming to portray the initiative as a humane and effective solution to the crisis. However, the GHF’s approach has been met with skepticism and criticism from both Palestinian communities and established humanitarian organizations. UN officials have expressed concerns that the GHF’s efforts are a distraction from the broader issues of blockade and infrastructure destruction, which are the root causes of the humanitarian crisis.
The Backlash: Controversy and Accusations
The GHF’s initiative has sparked a backlash from various quarters, with critics accusing the foundation of being a PR stunt aimed at whitewashing Israel’s military campaign in Gaza. The involvement of a high-profile restaurateur like Segal has added to the controversy, with some viewing his participation as an attempt to leverage his culinary fame for political purposes. The optics of a celebrity chef distributing aid in a conflict zone have been particularly contentious, with social media users drawing parallels between Segal’s upscale dining experiences and the dire conditions faced by Gazans.
Furthermore, reports of aid sites becoming flashpoints for violence and disputes over the GHF’s transparency and independence have further undermined the initiative’s credibility. The resignation of the foundation’s first director after just days on the job, citing chaos and lack of control, has raised questions about the GHF’s operational capabilities and long-term viability. These controversies have highlighted the complex interplay between humanitarian efforts, political interests, and public perception in conflict zones.
Food as Identity, Weapon, and Shield
The debate over the GHF and Israeli cuisine more broadly reflects deeper issues of identity, cultural ownership, and the politicization of food. For Palestinians, dishes like hummus and falafel are not just culinary delights but symbols of cultural heritage and resistance. The rebranding of these dishes as “Israeli” has been seen by many as an attempt to erase Palestinian identity and history. This cultural appropriation is not merely a matter of semantics but a reflection of the broader struggle for recognition and self-determination.
The GHF’s initiative has further amplified these tensions, with some viewing the foundation’s efforts as a means of exerting control over the narrative of aid and humanitarianism in Gaza. The use of food as a tool for political messaging and soft power has been a recurring theme in the conflict, with both sides seeking to shape international perceptions through culinary symbolism. This dynamic underscores the broader struggle over identity, memory, and the right to define one’s own cultural heritage.
A Recipe Without Resolution
The controversy surrounding the GHF and the globalization of Israeli cuisine highlights the complex interplay between culture, commerce, and conflict. Shahar Segal’s dual role as a restaurateur and humanitarian figure has brought these issues into sharp focus, raising questions about the ethical implications of leveraging culinary fame for political purposes. While some view the GHF as a pragmatic solution to the humanitarian crisis in Gaza, others see it as a cynical attempt to whitewash Israel’s actions and promote a favorable narrative.
The debate over the GHF also reflects broader tensions in the humanitarian sector, where the involvement of private actors and celebrities has become increasingly common. While these initiatives can bring much-needed attention and resources to crisis situations, they also risk overshadowing the work of established organizations and perpetuating a cycle of dependency and political manipulation. The GHF’s experience serves as a cautionary tale about the challenges of balancing humanitarian imperatives with political and commercial interests.
Conclusion: More Than Just a Meal
The story of Shahar Segal and the Gaza Humanitarian Foundation is a microcosm of the broader struggles over identity, culture, and power in the Middle East. The globalization of Israeli cuisine and the politicization of food aid in Gaza highlight the complex interplay between culinary innovation, cultural heritage, and geopolitical conflict. While the GHF’s initiative has sparked controversy and debate, it also underscores the urgent need for sustainable and equitable solutions to the humanitarian crisis in Gaza.
Ultimately, the question of who owns the narrative of Israeli cuisine and humanitarian aid in Gaza is not just about food but about justice, recognition, and the right to self-determination. Until these issues are addressed, the debate over the politics of the plate will continue to be a contentious and deeply divisive topic. The war over hummus and humanitarianism is a reflection of the broader struggle for justice and equality in the region, a struggle that will not be resolved through culinary innovation alone but through a commitment to dialogue, understanding, and mutual recognition.
